Lapland’s Polar Night: Skiing in the Soft Light of Winter

Many imagine the polar night as weeks of total darkness. I did too, before my first season as a ski instructor in Levi. But what surprised me wasn’t the lack of sun – it was the beauty of the light.

The white landscape and countless shades of blue and pink make the polar night a magical time for skiing. A telemark turn captured at Pyhä on the first day of the year.

When I first came north, I worried about how I’d handle the cold and the darkness. The idea of the sun never rising sounded extreme. But as it turned out, I had been worrying about the wrong thing.

Instead of endless darkness, I found soft twilight, glowing snow, and skies painted in shades of pink and blue. The polar night quickly became one of my favorite times to ski.

So, how dark is the polar night really?

Not nearly as dark as most people think. Even when the sun stays below the horizon, it sends a soft glow that reflects off snow-covered forests and frozen lakes. The result isn’t pitch black at all – it’s a gentle dimness, full of subtle light.

Yes, the days are short. Mornings and evenings are dark, and a headlamp comes in handy for everyday routines. But outdoors, I never felt deprived of light. With well-lit slopes and snowy landscapes that brighten everything around you, the days felt surprisingly vivid.

The polar night feels like one long blue moment. The lights of the ski slopes make long and atmospheric ski days possible. This blue-hour scene was captured in Levi in December.

Real Winter Facts

In Levi, the actual polar night lasts for about 20 days.

By December, all major resorts in Lapland are open – thanks to powerful snowmaking systems and natural early-season snowfall.

The ski season always stretches through Easter, and many resorts keep lifts open into May.

In other words: yes, the days are short, but skiing is not only possible – it’s unforgettable.

Pink January: a sight worth the trip

One morning in January, I rode to the top of the fell and saw the sky glowing in rose and violet. When the sun peeked over the horizon for the first time in weeks, the light hit my face and the whole landscape glittered.

Locals call it Pink January, and it’s magical. Every turn on the slopes feels like skiing through a painting.

From the top of the fell, you might catch a glimpse of the sun on the horizon — like in this photo taken at Ylläs in early January.

Why the Polar Night Is Special

The polar night is often misunderstood as something to endure. In reality, it’s something to experience. It’s calm, colorful, and truly unique. Families discover that even in the darkest time of year, skiing in Finland feels safe, welcoming, and magical.

I came here worried about the dark. I stayed because of the light.

If you want to experience Lapland at its most unique, come during the polar night – where winter glows, the sky turns pink, and skiing feels extraordinary.

Tips from a Ski Instructor

Slopes are well lit: Skiing is safe and comfortable, even on the shortest days.
Bring a headlamp: Perfect for evening walks or sledding with the kids.
Enjoy the snow itself: Families often find sledding and simple snow play just as fun as skiing.
Layer your clothing: Finland’s dry cold is easier to handle than damp Alpine winters.